Five hours of sleep, then back out with Vlado. The sunrise made the early start feel worth it almost immediately. Light reached the marble peaks one by one, and we were there to watch it happen.
This was our second day in Pirin. Vihren was behind us, and the Todorka ridge was ahead: three summits above 2,700 metres, with the main Todorka reaching 2,746 metres. The final stretch along the stone ridge was one of those parts of a walk where I wanted to take in everything.
Before the last climb, we stopped where we could see Vihren. We could trace the way we had taken the day before. From this side, it looked almost impossible that we had been up there. Yet we had, and now we were looking back at it together.
Below us were the two lakes known as Todorini Ochi, or Todora’s Eyes. Above them, the wind was strong and the views kept pulling my attention out across the range.
I love Pirin. These two days gave me time on its ridges, a sunrise I am glad I saw and the company of a friend to share it all with. Looking back across to yesterday’s mountain was a particularly nice way to finish the trip.





